The Le Lapin Troubaudour’s menu

One of the main draws of the restaurant Le Lapin Troubadour in Montmartre, Paris, is the fact that the menu is changed frequently. Some dishes, it appears, are never featured twice, although chef Gilbert Dreaudu promises one day the recipes will appear in a marvelous book collection. However, one dish is a permanent offer in the inventive menu, the Dos de Chanceloux. The Chanceloux (Caphresia islandensis)(Dengrurfiskur) is a fish that only lives around Iceland these days, once quite prevalent in the Scandinavian coast. The legend is that the old Vikings thought the golden skinned fish was holy so they would not eat it. They were missing something else! A kind of cod, the fish has a consistency of Chilean seabass with a slightly sweet taste. The way Le Lapin Troubadour prepares it is nicely sauteed with Dutch butter (fresh butter comes from the Netherlands daily), a sublime sauce that includes thyme, ginger and a few other secret recipes used by Dreaudu. It is served with browned Belgian potatoes with onion shavings and Austrian asparagus. It is a delicious dish, and it is very difficult to find this fish, which apparently is on the verge of extinction.

Another curiosity is that owner René Canot loves ducks, and keeps a few as pets, so the restaurant has never offered ducks or geese on the menu, or foie gras in any shape or form. The cassoulet, when offered, is done with confit de poulet (chicken).

The desserts and wine list are equally impressive, the last put together by François Duchaine, an award winning sommellier.


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